Carport construction

Our drive way lies directly beneath a large pecan tree. While the shade it provides is nice, the birds perch in it and take massive dumps onto our cars and the trees are constantly dropping leaves, sap (technically it was aphids dropping sap but whatever) and pollen thingies on to the cars. The one car garage is bursting at the seams with garden tools, and other junk.

 

After getting bids ranging from $2,800.00 to $5,200.00 for various types of carports I decided to try to tackle it my self to save some green. Yes, I understand time is money, however, I enjoy projects and the sense of accomplishment that comes with them. It was somewhat difficult to find simple but detailed plans for the project online. I ended up going with this carport design. The only other example of this build I could find online is this guy in Seattle, although he didn't use metal roofing like I plan to.

Since this is in the very front of my house I got a city permit. (without a permit the city could come make you take the whole thing down and hit you with some hefty fines). The clerk at the city link center said its $110.00 for the permit but by the time they tack all the crap on it, they gouge you for $2625.00. The clerk told me to call the city inspector to check on the footings. When I did, the inspector didn't sound like he knew what he was talking about and wanted me to dig the holes an extra foot deep and 6" wide. So I called the city development department who oversees permits. The guy told me it was a good thing I called because a registered engineer has to sign off on the footings for the posts. That added an extra $325.00 to the cost of the carport for a guy to come out for 5 minutes with a tape measure, look at the holes in the ground, and send a PDF.

Using #2 Pressure Treated Lumber for the entire structure

Some weird cotton wood but came to visit.

Markings for the holes

got the holes dug and the batter boards in place.

strings marking the post positions

before 3 days of rain filled the holes with water and I had to dig out the sediment.

12" wide by 24"deep

Tip : when using this small concrete mixer (I learned how to use it the hard way), you can mix 80# bags at a time. Notice the opening of the mixer is facing down the slope. If the barrel is tilted to far back the concrete doesn't mix well.  First add the water for the first bag then pour half a bag of concrete in and let it mix. Once it mixes (it will be soupy) add the rest of the bag. Then add half the water for the second bag and the whole bag. Slowly add the rest of the water.

Rented a Cement mixer from Home Depot. Best $44.00 + tax spent

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Tip: pour several inches of cement in the whole and put the post in and get in generally in the right place. It will make it easier to position the post in the right place.  

Each hole took four 80 pound bags of 5000 psi concrete

All the posts are set. I let the concrete cure for a week before starting on the framing.

Neighbor Ron, who helped set the posts, writing his initials in the concrete

 Had to pick up another 2x8x12 because I cut the angle opposite in the other one. I need a truck.

Galvanized Joist hangars use joist hangar nails to mount to the beams and 10d common nails through the joist into the beams.

 

My neighbor Ron gave me a tool belt!

Hound Rescue Beagle overseeing the project.

Corner connector

Mounted wood to wood angle bracket while beam was on the ground so it would be easier.

Used clamps to hold the boards in place while drilling the holes in the post and the headers.

1.75" center of the post. The 8" headers are actually 7". The bolts are 2" from the top and bottom of the header and 3" between the bolts.

1/2" x 6" Galvanized bolts with washers on both sides, and lock washer between washer an nut.

According to the Simpson Strong tie video on youtube, the gap between the joist and  beam shouldn't exceed 1/8th inch. I took this board down and cut another one because I want to pass the city inspection the first time.

A simple solution to assist installing the face board in the front of the carport.

Got the blocking in place. I gotta work on the lateral bracing next.

Still need to trim the top of the posts. Going to do that last.

Lowes 2x8x12 is actually 2x7.5" and the wood from Austin Wholesale Deck Supply is actually 2x7.25

I added 2x6 beams to the posts to have something to attach the lateral braces to.

45 degree miter on the outside beams.

Another beam on the post for the lateral bracing.

Blocking down the middle

10d common galvanized nails securing the lateral brace to the posts.

Once I finished the framing, the city had to come out and approve it before I could continue to put the roof on. The city inspector came out and glanced at the carport for about 30 seconds, pulled slightly on one of the lateral braces and passed it without taking one measurement. The good thing is it passed but I'm just wondering what I paid $265 for.  I decided to paint the wood carport before putting the metal roofing on it. It took two coats of primer to get it to where I can't see the wood through the paint. In all it took about 1.5 gallons of primer.